Tips to find a 'cool place'

I mean 'my cool' type of a place. Sometimes you are just lucky and the place comes to you by some kind of a magic.

But in many American towns, it's difficult to find these places that have not yet been swallowed away from the downtown into the outskirts that you can only reach by car. Often, downtowns are almost dead and you will find most of the activity along one or two highways that get you in and out of the town.

Anyhow, to find a cool place to spend a little time around lunch and checking emails, one easy way is to google it by the name of the town + 'wifi' or 'coffee'; which I did yesterday morning.

Emporium Coffeehouse & café: I check the reviews and aside from the many praises, I read this "I guess they think this is France or something (you know little portions)". Sure, I've got to test it. And sometimes, the magic finds you again.

Ron and Sara own the place. He is finishing tiling the patio with Mike his son as I get there; yet he welcomes me as a French traveler, offers me coffee, introduces me to the Chef, the waitresses and his place. In the evening, they have a special event with a little band; as I decide to come, he invites me to join his family table.



Sure we had a very nice diner with Ron, Sara, her father, their daughters Alex and Jess, Mike and Emily his fiancée. And the table carried on growing as more friends came around... not to forget Louise the most affectionate artist I met so far ;-)

This morning, they invited me for breakfast at their home. We shared a good time chatting about food, websites, 'art de vivre'... until the beginning of the afternoon when it was time for me to take off towards Wyoming: "When (not 'if') you come to France, I will take you to good places I enjoy, like L'étoile du Berger or Monjul"



(Where are you Alex? Not on the picture... working at Emporium...)

More info:
* Emporium Coffeehouse and Café, 1818 1st Ave Scottsbluff, NE 69361 / T.(308)632 6222
* And by the way, the portions are normal. It's not about the quantity but the taste and enjoying a good time with friends. But that's just the opinion of a biker that currently burns more than 4,000 calories a day.

A welcome sight

As a migrant thru the country, on the Oregon and California trails, I had been told that I should expect this famous landmark in the American West: Chimney Rock.

Already in Broadwater, the keeper of the gas station gave me a Nebraska quarter with the Chimney Rock on it. It was on the other bank of the North Platte river, past Bridgeport.



As I got to Bridgeport, the lady from the visitors bureau instructed me on the Chimney Rock: it was not just a geological curiosity; but a landmark that migrants on the trails had been expecting to signal the end of the prairies as the trails became more steep and rugged heading west towards the Rockies. It also meant that they were one third thru their journey from Missouri towards California.

The clouds were low and dark this morning when I left Bridgeport. I even expected to get some rain. As I rode towards Scottsbluff, little by little, it appeared to me in the distance thru a fine mist.



More info:
* Chimney Rock in Nebraska (apparently there would be another one in North Carolina)

'I believe I can fly'

East wind is great! As great as I cursed west wind few days ago in Iowa.

This afternoon, I extended my ride initially intended to Broadwater till Brideport. I was riding fast with a nice little east wind, sometime slowing down to 30 km/h ;-)

And the scenery was just gorgeous! There were these hills in the distance on the right...



and the prairie on the left side of the road, where the North Platter river flows.



Note: so I was in a good mood to also breach 2,000 mi since I left ;-)

More info:
* I believe I can fly by R Kelly

Oshkosh

Today, around 11:00, I arrived in the small town of Oshkosh; 887 people according to 2000 census. It is also the capital of goose hunting according to the city limit sign



There's also a coffee roastery that ships its products across the US and Canada, Mark Ferrari, run by Mike Piva. I had lunch there and of course an expresso.



But what's so special about this little town of Nebraska?

In Oshkosh, I am exactly half way thru my ride from New York City to San Francisco.

Most unlikely?

Does getting two flat tires at the same time gives you good luck?

Anyhow when I started this morning from a campsite on the northern side of Lake Mc Conaughy (just north from Ogallala), a quite strong wind was blowing from the north, occasionally slightly against me.

After changing two tubes and one tire, I got to a small town, Lewellen, looking for a breakfast place. A lady tells me that I can go back to the gas station at the entrance of the town, "or there is this place just here that provides coffee and rolls". That will do it!



I don't know exactly when I arrived and how much time I spent there. It's an old barn, initially built to be a speechless movie theater, some one hundred years ago. It has been used for almost everything since, even a greasy body shop. Today, it combines an art gallery, a coffee place (with wifi!) where you can also have lunch. It's peaceful and as the place has been opened for just 5 weeks, mostly local people come here.

"It has something of a bike trip" told me Cindy, the lady that owns it with her brother Dennis. "I want it to be a slow place"... something of Nicolas Bouvier I presume.

More info:
* The Most Unlikely Place, 205 Main Street Lewellen, Nebraska 69147

Which way thru the Rockies?

As I am approaching Ogollala, Nebraska, I need to make sure that my road thru Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon is the right one. The guy of the Motel where I stayed last night in North Platte gave me a Road Atlas which is quite detailed.

The alternative is going thru Colorado, Utah and then Nevada, riding the so called "loneliest road" that runs all the way to Reno. It would be a good opportunity to pay a visit to Lake Tahoe. And it's also 400 km shorter that my other option.

View Larger Map

Yet the north option is supposed to be less hilly as the mountains west of Fort Collins. And it would take me thru Teton National Park and a few other forests. It's probably not as hot and desert as Nevada, although a portion of Oregon between Ontario and Lakeview might be quite similar to north Nevada.

There I am in Ogollala where the roads split; one more hour to think of it as I also entered the Mountain Time zone today. My northern option thru Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon should be confirmed.

Here starts the west

Historically, the 100th meridian separates the east side of the country where no irrigation is needed from the west side where it is needed. I have seen irrigation before I cross the meridian though.

Cozad is a small town right on the meridian and I went thru it today. Is it a coincidence? I have to admit still that in the 10 or 20 miles that followed I noticed some changes in the scenery, with less corn fields and already some prairies and few hills in the distance.



No surprise then that I get to North Platte in the evening, the home town of Buffalo Bill. I gave a try to stay at the camping next to his ranch; yet no shower, no running water. I am not yet that of a cowboy!

More info:
* 100th meridian
* Buffalo Bill

Note:
* When I reached North Platter, I had breached my 3,000 km ridden since I left NYC; and ridden my longest ride as well: 174 km.

Incredible Kearney !

I borrowed the slogan to the Indian Ministry of Tourism. I usually don't write about the nice and spontaneous welcome I get in some places; for instance when I was offered campsite and diner as it happened in South Whitley, Indiana. Yet here is another example of incredible hospitality as I got today to Kearney, in the middle of Nebraska.

Anytime I come across with a bike shop, I check if they have the tire I am looking for: Hutchinson 26 x 1.2 Top Slick. Although they seem to be referred in US type of sizes, they are difficult to find (by the way, European sizes are easier to find for road bikes). So once again I check at Kearney Cycling. He does not have it. But as he sees that I am riding cross country, he calls right away a shop in Scottsbluffs, NE where I should be at the end of the week; and manages with the other shop to have it ordered. Nice!



Then I get to a coffee place to have a drink and check my emails. The place is definitely cool, a mix of Indian yoga, artistic gallery, bio products, and self-development activities. As I am about to pay, the lady behind me overhears my conversation with the waitress about my cross-country trip and decides to pay for me. Although I am somewhat embarrassed, there is nothing to do. Thx very much to her!

I need to find a campsite and pay a visit to the visitors bureau: the campground is out of town, south-east and I have a long day tomorrow rather north-west. The better alternative is to take a motel in town and ensure a good night sleep. As I have booked a room at the Midtown Western Inn they directed me to, the phone rings at the reception: Paty from the visitors bureau offers to pay for my room!

Last the owner of the motel pays me beer as I am finishing my diner at the restaurant just next to the motel.

Waoo! Incredible hospitality!

More info:
* Kearney Cycling & Fitness 2216 Central Ave Kearney, NE 68847
* Elements 2100 Central Ave Kearney, NE 68847
* Kearney visitors bureau

On the California trail

Past Omaha, I came across with this sign that reminds us that gold-seekers migrated along part of the path that I am taking. The greatest migration in American history started at various points along the Missouri river, and among them, Omaha.



So this confirms that, if I am not yet there, I should be heading in the right direction:

View Larger Map

My estimate despite a slight change of methodology ;-) tells me that I should be 42% thru (all details day by day).

On the bike side, I was quite happy to find a spare tire in Lincoln that could well help me in case I get rough roads like gravels.

On the biker side, I need to manage more and more the trip in the long time: I had a painful muscle strain in my left calf on Wednesday that I managed by pedaling slower, with the tip of my foot pointing towards the ground. I believe that was partly the result of a bad night at a noisy campground next to Interstate 80; partly some enthusiasm as I rode a bike trail out of Des Moines.

More info:
* The legend of the California trail

To the French American friendship

As I was searching for a campground in York, Nebraska, I came across with Tom in a gas station. Gas stations are like a second home to me and to plenty Americans who take their breakfast there.

However, Tom is working for the town of York; he mows the grass. He is also interested by History.
- "Thanks for helping us out during the Revolutionary war" he tells me as I explain that I am coming from France.
- "Thanks for helping us out of the second world war" I replied somewhat thinking "it always feels good the beat the English...".
- "We have close to here towns named after French, like Lafayette, Marquette..."
- "Yes and I have even seen Napoleon. But we have avenues named after Americans like Kennedy, Roosevelt..."
- "You are the first French guy I meet you know... good to meet you!"

Tom gave me a souvenir ticket from a Husker's football match at the Memorial Stadium, big stuff in Nebraska!



- "And you are travelling with just that all across the country?!" he said pointing at my little trailer. "You are some kind of a hero!"
- "Oh no, just a little crazy."

This is my gift to him and to the friendship between American and French people.

Bringing the world to Nebraska

Although Omaha is more known, Lincoln happens to be the capital city of Nebraska and also has a University campus within the downtown itself, which makes it very nice to ride thru. The sport teams such as football (Huskers) or volley ball, the Memorial Stadium are some sort of a spin off from the University.



Yet yesterday when I came back a little earlier from the show, I came across this program on TV (Oops I watched TV!) by the E.N Thompson Forum. A lady, Sarah Chayes, was giving a speech about her vision of Afghanistan. Living and Working in Kandahar since 2001, she presented her point of view of what she thinks would be needed; unconventional and argued vision (if you have an hour, it's really worth it).



Let's put it this way: although the city seems lively and pleasant to ride thru, I did not expect to find that interesting a program so far west in the plains of the mid-west (I mean, that we do not get on French TV...).

More info:
* Speech of Sarah Chayes at E.N Thompson Forum in March 4th '09
* E.N Thompson Forum

Biased comment: so a University is not just a place to go on strike and play revolutionaries. It can be also a forum where you learn, you exchange ideas and you think. Hum?

And here is the trouble maker

It was just a little challenging to attend such a show in the Lincoln Memorial Stadium: two comedians opened it and then came Larry the cable guy.



As the show went on, from one comedian telling jokes to the next one, I was dragged into more western English accent and humor. I laughed at the first one and did not understand a single joke of the last one tonight star.



But all Nebraska people here seemed to enjoy their July 4th event.

Tempest in a teapot

As I arrived in Lincoln NE, I overheard in several occasions this discussion about the regular July 4th fireworks being moved to July 3rd, because of a Cable Guy giving a big show at the Memorial Stadium, home of the Nebraska Huskers.



Well, there were storms in the evening, the July 3rd fireworks were canceled and I was glad to have a motel for my July 4th break.

Three bridges for a day

Everyone has his daily little concerns. For you it may be to meet the deadline of this memo that you have to hand out to your client. In my case, I was concerned this morning by works on bridges. It may sound somewhat odd and from another time.

From Griswold IA to Omaha NE, road 92 runs across number of rivers and of course the bridges need to be maintained from time to time. Yet in the country where car is king, a detour of 5 or 10 miles is not an issue.



I came across with signs "road closed" but carried on: before taking a detour, I want to give the shortest way a chance. It's the third time since I left NYC that I come across with works on bridges. Two days ago, I could not cross the remaining 30 meters which forced me to take a several mile detour.



Yet it went quite well today with the two bridges I had to cross as they had built a temporary facility in dirt. And I was quite happy not to ride the extra 10 miles!

Yet the most exciting bridge was definitely the third one, an elegant pedestrian bridge across the Missouri, which also signs the border between Iowa and Nebraska.



The nicest bridge I've come across so far allowed me to enter Omaha, Nebraska.

More info:
* Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge